The Scroll Saw Lady

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Archive for the 'Woodworking Tips (General)' Category

“Scroll Saw Workbook” Review

Posted by The Scroll Saw Lady on 1st September 2008

When I first started scroll sawing I bought the Scroll Saw Workbook, If your new to scrolling and aren’t sure where to get started, I’d recommend this book highly, the title of the book is “Scroll Saw Workbook” by John A. Nelson

It starts with a brief overview of the history of scrolling which dates back to the 1500’s and has illustrations of both old saws and patterns from the Victorian era, very different from we do these days. The book moves on to the different types of scroll saws that you can choose and how it makes a difference in price and ease of use, noise vs. vibration, etc. There are many illustrations and descriptions of the modern scroll saws that are available here in the U.S. and their features and accessories. The book also covers the different type of scroll saw blades, a description and their uses, and how to properly tension the blade.

The practice exercises start with the most basic operation, accurately cutting straight lines, curved, wavy and sharp turns. Show how to do stack cutting so that you can make multiple items at once.  How to cut materials like plastic and paper,  3-D cutting,  and making relief cuts. Basic patterns are provided to make some nice small projects for the beginner. I bought the book on Amazon.com, but the book is also available from Fox Chapel Publishing.

Scroll Saw Workbook

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Picking Wood For A Project, Be selective.

Posted by The Scroll Saw Lady on 28th August 2008

As I said earlier in posts, what wood you use depends on what kind of project you are undertaking.  For projects that will be painted, you can use simply MVF.  For furniture, it’s often a good idea to choose something that will finish well like cedar or oak.

You’ll most likely be getting your wood from a lumber supply store or a home improvement store like Home Depot or Lowe’s.  There are a few things you need to keep in mind when picking out your lumber.

At the lumber yard or store, you’ll find wood boards stacked up in high piles according to length, quality grade, thickness, wood type and many other categories. Even in piles of boards that are grouped as being the same, there are differences in quality, so follow these simple tips for choosing boards that will work for your woodworking projects.

Don’t take boards you don’t want!  Lumberyard novices may feel like they have to take the boards that are first presented to them. Don’t be afraid to examine each board closely and send boards back if they don’t meet your criteria. Why pay for a warped board that won’t work in your current project?

Rejecting boards is not an insult, but a way to pay for wood you can use, so get in the habit early.  Check for straightness.  Hold the board at eye level on one end, with the other end on the ground. Look down the board to see if it has obvious curves or twists. Some projects can handle a curved board, but for beginners, working with curved boards may be too complicated.

Check for splits and warping.  Look over both sides of the board to see if there are any long splits or warped edges. Splits and warps reduce the amount of wood you can use for your project, so pass on boards that would result in a lot of waste.

Knotholes can be considered attractive in some kinds of woodworking projects, so if you’re looking for a really knotty piece of wood, that’s fine.  Otherwise, check your boards for large knotholes that would become waste wood or loose knot pieces that may fall out, causing gaps or weak areas in your cut pieces.

For fine woodworking projects or projects that need a straight, even grain, quarter sawn lumber offers even wood graining, but is more expensive than regular plain sawn lumber. Decide whether you’re willing to pay for the straight grain before choosing boards. Look closely at each board to see if the color is even enough for your project, and that there are not a large number of wormholes or other marred areas. Also check for lumberyard chalk or pen markings or dents that may not come off easily.

Used boards gathered from old barns or other projects can be interesting and fun to work with. However, when buying or choosing reclaimed lumber, check for signs of decay. If the board is spongy or soft, or has signs of fungus on it, it may not hold up well as project wood.

Pressure-treated lumber and chemically treated lumber are for use in outdoor projects, and are better able to withstand temperature and moisture changes. If you’re building a deck or outdoor project, ask for treated lumber. Otherwise, untreated boards are a better choice.

The beginning woodworker should probably start out using softer woods like pine or spruce.  They are easier to work, and you can eventually move up to harder woods like oak and cedar.

You’re almost ready to get started on your first project, now you just need to decide on what to make. Good Luck to you and always follow all safety precautions!

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What are Sheet Goods?

Posted by The Scroll Saw Lady on 26th August 2008

What are Sheet Goods and do you want to pick these for your projects?

Sheet Goods

The two most common manufactured sheets goods used in furniture making are MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) and Particle Board. Both are made from wood particles, combined with glue and bonded under pressure. MDF has finer particles than Particle Board so produces a smoother and stronger finished product.

MDF machines very well and is often used for moulded components on painted furniture. Its main draw back is that it is a very heavy product compared to real wood.  Because of their laminated construction, they are extremely stable in all dimensions. Since the veneers on any given panel are usually cut sequentially from the same log, the panel should display a uniform color and grain.

Matching the grain pattern of solid wood to the generally uniform grain pattern on the panels can be difficult. But careful planning can yield good matches in the most visible areas of your project.
Manufactured sheets do have limitations, whenever they are used, regardless of the core, the edge must be hidden and the veneers on the surface are extremely thin, often less than 1/32 in. Because of this, the surface is fragile and has a tendency to split out, especially on the back side of a saw cut. Also, since the veneer is so thin aggressive sanding can quickly work through the veneer and expose the unattractive core underneath.

These materials are generally not used in scroll sawing because of the fact that the layers can be seen once you scroll your project and leave an unsightly look to your picture or projects scroll sawn.  Though you may still find times when they can come in handy for a project.

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